In the early morning chill we loaded Gary's truck with the boards and made our way down to Kahalu'u Beach Park, the perfect spot for a couple of newbies. The water was refreshingly warm, the sun was gently heating our backs and the adrenaline was flowing. The three of us pushed off the sharp black lava rocks and paddled out, the reef and schools of yellow fish showing clearly beneath us.
So many things were going through my mind as I turned my board to face the shore and started paddling, paddling as hard as I could. Was a shark going to eat me? What if I hit the shallow rock bottom? What if I get in someones way? Before I could change my mind the wave was at my back. Just as I thought my arms would break off from the paddling, I felt the wave pushing me. Running through the steps I was told to take, I put my left foot out in front of me, I took a moment to find my balance and then, I stood up. Once I realized I was still alive and actually surfing for the first time, a rush of excitement came over me and I couldn't help but smile my way to the end of the wave.
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| "Casey on the Shoreline" 12/30/2012 |
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